Stakeholders from all walks attended the conference, such as Irina Chernyak, chef editor for the magazine Collezioni; Serge Carrera, professor at Sciences-Po Paris in ”Fashion & Luxury”; Fabrice Raul, export manager for the brand Didier Parakian;  designer Leonid Alexeev, creator of the eponym, as well as sisters Stephanie and Vanessa Kula, creators and owners of the brand Valentina Vox.

 

Various issues have been raised and many answers developed concerning; the history and the global market of fashion in France and Russia, the cross-cultural influences, the brands of “prêt-à-porter” called “premium”, the experiences of two French brands nowadays present Russia, as well as the creation and launch of new brands inside different markets.

 

French brands largely and increasingly present in Russia are still represented by "large luxury houses" such as Dior, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and others. However, in France, many new brands have known how to explore and breakthrough the market and are still a huge success, by integrating the segment of “prêt-à-porter” premium. This one is accessible to a wider French public, which pays a particular attention to the quality of products but also to the sophistication and respect of the French style. Russian consumers, meeting the same expectations, are meanwhile still unfamiliar with these new brands; due to the lack of presence of these latters on the Russian market.

 

• The French fashion and its influence in Russia:

French culture has always had a strong influence in Russia, like in many countries. Promoting thereby the expansion of French fashion, which had thrived through internationally known brands but often unaffordable. Indeed, for decades, flagship French brands have known how to establish themselves and continue to grow in the most exclusive districts or shopping centers of Russia, unlike France where the market is declining.

 

• Analysis of the brands of “prêt-à-porter” premium in France:

The market of ready-to-wear in France is both complex and changing. Representing in France 29.8 billion euro in 2011, it has suffered a decline in value since 2010. The share of clothing in household consumption is steadily declining in France. The regular decrease in consumption leads to a steady drop in sale prices and diminish the distribution network. Thus, pushing more the French brands to establish themselves abroad, and especially in growing markets like in Russia.

Information to the market structure of “prêt-à-porter” is split as follows:

- Luxury brands or “hyperbrands”: Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Hermès.

- Creative Brand: Paul and Joe, Zadig & Voltaire, Sandro, Paul Smith, Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, Maje.

- Fast Fashion Brands: H & M, Zara, Gap, Mango, Uniglo.

 

• Experience of two major French brands in Russia:

The implementation of a French brand in Russia is proving to be complex, even if it meets Russians consumer expectations. You must know how to create a name, be recognized by the consumer targeted, but also establish the process of importing or manufacturing.

Indeed, although most brands tell "premium" comply with qualitative and morphological demands as well as the current fashion in Russia, they must firstly be purchased by Russians consumers when they travel in Western Europe before being released and distributed directly in Russia. Thus, the issue of manufacturing within the country can be more complicated when the mark is still in its infancy. You must find partners who are willing to produce in limited quantities and meet the same workmanship. The solution advocated is to produce under license to protect the brand and also the industry.

• Create and launch a new brand:

The creation and launch of a new brand come with opportunities but also challenges. You must be able to obtain the necessary funds for the conception of the first collection, but also to create a name in the world of fashion as quickly as possible. This sector is saturated and full of young designers ready to take their independence by launching their own brands. Russian and French designers face the same challenges, the only difference is that it is more difficult for a Russian to develop its own brand in Russia when the current fashion is geared more towards the famous French brands and designers.

 

This conference gives us the opportunity to better understand the complexities and challenges of the fashion industry in two different markets in full mutations.

 

We have finally attended at a fashion show, highlighting the Valentina Vox's latest collection.